In this project, we will see how to build an 8x8x8 LED Cube. There are many projects based on the 8x8x8 LED Cube and some of them became. 8x8x8 LED Cube Driver If you take a look back at the schematic you will see it is basically split in half. The right hand side is for the individual LED driver and the. 8x8x8 LED cube powered by an arduino. GitHub is home to over 28 million developers working together to host and review code, manage projects, and build.
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You should Sign Up. Already have an account? I found the 4x4x4 RGB cube very rewarding to build so I’m moving up to 8x8x8. Electrically, the cube is made up of 64 pillars containing 8 LEDs each. Quickly setting up which of those LEDs on that layer should be on and then repeating that for the other layers, gives the illusion that we can individually control every individual LED.
More soldering, having to deal with alignment of the extra wires. Larger cube also meant more fragile cube. The result is an impressive 11″x11″x11″ cube. However, it took many more hours to build compared to the usual led cube. This resulted a lot of unnecessary circuit, which I was later able to eliminate.
Various versions of the code is on github. View all 14 components. All the top LEDs are rested in the holes of the wooden jig. It was standing like this while I solder all the cross wires. Foam core board is my friend. A very simple jig made of foam core with slits cut using a razor blade. Holds the wires at perfect 4cm spacing. This small screwdriver was just the right weight to lightly hold down on the wire that I’m soldering. I like how the cube looks when you’re looking down the “aisles” rather than straight on the walls.
So I decided to make this the front of the cube. The cube will be mounted on a PCB instead of a piece of wood. Originally, I planned on putting all the components on this one board. That has the advantage of a very clean construction avoiding the ribbon cable mess between the LEDs and the shift register outpus.
However, I’ve since then decided to keep things modular so if I build another cube or came up with better circuit to drive the cube, I would have options. I did a continuity test after soldering each group of wiring.
The circuit worked the first time I plugged it in! LEDs taking over every open table surface: There are two more 8×8 walls on another table. These are all LEDs that will make up the cube.
There will be eight vertical walls projecg 64 LEDs each. Two such walls have been completed. The other six walls still need to be soldered together eight strands of eight LEDs each. Should go pretty quick now that I have the 3D printed jig. I’m sure I’m making this harder prooject it needs to be, but it took several iterations to make the “vertical” jig. I probably should make even more so I don’t have to keep moving them as I solder.
I got impatient and increased the print speed on my printer and that lowered the print quality. Note how the LED is held crooked. Thankfully, I was able to straighten it out by holding soldering iron near the trouble spot and correct the hole by inserting an LED to reform the hole. With six jigs, the structure is finally rigid enough for soldering.
Here’s one finished wall. Horizontal wires are anodes that will be common per layer.
Vertical wires are cathodes eight per wall, 64 total. You can see the excess vertical wires at the top of this photo.
These will elevate the lowest layer 4cm 8xx88 the base, so the projectt would appear to be floating rather than resting on the base. Thanks to my fellow makers BrianM and Ked for helping me solve the forest of 64 vertical wires!
This is a mistake!! Once I have all all eight layers, soldering in a forest of 64 vertical cathode wires would be very difficult if not impossible. The next problem is how to keep the vertical wires straight up while also keeping the LED rows lined up. BrianM came up with a brilliant solution! Lay them flat on the table! Although we’re making a wall of LEDs, there is no reason why we can’t lay them flat while we solder them. I made a jig using my 3D printer and as you can see, it works very well.
I just need to print a few more so I can solder the whole wall at once without moving the jig. View all 21 project logs. Hi, I have just built this project I used ohm resistors, when the cube is all on I measured the current being drawn it was around ma and it’s very bright in a darkened room I assume this is because its switching eight layers. Sorry for this question. On 8x8z8 wiring diagram the input from the arduino to the power side, you have it labeled net label.
And it says To Projext pin to control the layers. It maybe because I do not completely understand what I am looking at. But I have built pronect test board a couple of times and it fails every time and I think I am doing something wrong. That is ldd and I actually had to relearned it to figure it out! Then we setup eight more pins for output starting with pin 2 to pin 9. So first “net label” should go to Arduino Ucbe, second “net label” goes to D3, etc. Let me know if that’s still unclear.
As I said, it’s not you. I should have documented it better. Thank you very much for clarifying. It’s been on github all along, but here is the link: I got all the stuff to start this project. I am starting it today.
8x8x8 LED Cube With Arduino | PyroElectro – News, Projects & Tutorials
Thanks for this awesome project. What an amazing build! 88xx8 already created the cube itself. Tested the layers and collums with some breadboard electronics. Seems that I am better in soldering than coding Can you or anyone direct me to some code for this project? I didnt have a big enough perfboard for the mosfet board so I halfway designed a board in pcb express.
I have built the cube, shift register board, and the mosfet board I will post pictures up soon. This is an amazing project. I know how much work it was to build.
Building An 8x8x8 LED Cube
Yes, I’d love to see your cube. I see that you used ohm resisters for your cube. I’m building a 6×6 cube and calculated that I would need only 60ohm resisters so I went with ohm. I’m hoping that will be suffice. I had a question regarding grounding. Pfoject discovered that I did not need 30mA to make the leds bright enough. One way prpject find out Would love to see the finished cube when you get it done!
Hello Hari, I’m trying to build an 8x8x8 led cube and I found this very nice tutorial. I have some doubts which I wish you cold clarify. Every led take up to 20 mA and every shift register take care of 8 columns.
Since only one layer is light up at time, we can have at most 8 led light up for each shift register for a total of mA. How can you handle that current with the 74hc? Are you multiplexing also on the shift register themselves?
Meaning that you light up only one column at time? Also, each level is only on for a very short time, so that also decreases the average current. Love to see it. Hello, thank for the reply. But still can get how this could work.